“PART OF MY LAVENDER PLANT HAS DIED”
THE PROBLEM:: SECTIONAL DIEBACK SUDDENLY APPEARS AFTER YEARS OF HEALTHY GROWTH
CAUSE: AS LAVENDER GROWS, BRANCHES SOMETIMES CROSS (OR BREAK) AND CHOKE OFF WATER SUPPLY TO OTHER BRANCHES
REMEDY: REMOVE ALL DEAD PLANT TISSUE. NEW HEATHY BRANCHES WILL GROW IN TO FILL THE EMPTY SPACE WITHIN 24 MONTHS
“MY LAVENDER SHRUB IS NOT BLOOMING FLOWERS”
THE PROBLEM: AN OTHERWISE HEALTHY LAVENDER SHRUB FAILS TO PRODUCE FLOWERS FOR AT LEAST 12 MONTHS
THE CAUSE: USUALLY EXCESS NITROGEN IN SOIL. ALSO CAUSED BY EXCESS SHADE.
THE REMEDY: PLANT LAVENDER IN FULL SUN & AVOID USING PLANT “FOODS” THAT CONTAIN NITROGEN
“MY LAVENDER SHRUB IS TURNING YELLOW”
THE PROBLEM: LAVENDER LEAVES TURNING YELLOW
THE CAUSE: HEAT AND/OR WATER STRESS TO THE ROOT SYSTEM. IF ROOTS ARE GETTING TOO HOT OR TOO DRY, LEAVES WILL TURN YELLOW. THIS IS ESPECIALLY COMMON IN POTTED LAVENDER PLANTS. SOGGY WARM SOIL WILL RAPIDLY KILL A LAVENDER PLANT.
THE REMEDY: FOR POTTED LAVENDER: USE CACTUS SOIL MIX WITH EXTRA DRAINAGE HOLES AND AN INSULATED PLANTER TO PROTECT THE ROOTS FROM RAPID TEMPERATURE SHIFTS. MONITOR SOIL MOISTURE CLOSELY. REMOVE FLOWERS TO AID RECOVERY
FOR GROUND PLANTED LAVENDER: MAKE SURE LAVENDER IS PLANTED IN A BERM SIGHTLY ABOVE THE SOIL LINE. CHECK FOR ROOT ROT FROM EXCESS WATER AND DAMAGE FROM GOPHERS. IF PLANT IS OTHERWISE HEALTHY, IRRIGATE ONCE EVERY SEVEN DAYS DURING DRY SEASON. REMOVE FLOWERS TO AID RECOVERY.
‘“MY LAVENDER SHRUB IS WILTING”
THE PROBLEM: LAVENDER PLANT IS WILTING
THE CAUSE: COLLAPSE OF WATER INTAKE SYSTEM. EITHER THE LAVENDER CANNOT TAKE UP WATER (DAMAGED ROOTS) OR THE ROOTS HAVE NO ACCESS TO WATER FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME
THE REMEDY: FOR POTTED LAVENDER: STEP ONE: REMOVE FLOWERS AND OUTER LEAVES WITH SCISSORS. STEP TWO: CHECK FOR ROOT ROT BY EVALUATING IF SOIL IS SOGGY AND ROOTS FREELY BREAK AWAY FROM BASE OF PLANT. CHANGE SOIL TO CACTUS MIX AND QUARANTINE PLANT FROM OTHER PLANTS. IF SOIL IS EXTREMELY DRY, IRRIGATE AND, IF POSSIBLE, VENTILATE WITH A FAN TO ASSIST IN WATER UPTAKE, MOVE TO A COOL SHADED LOCATION. DO NOT KEEP LAVENDER INDOORS. FOR GROUND PLANTED LAVENDER: CHECK FOR HEAT STRESS AND ROOT DAMAGE, IRRIGATE WITH COOL WATER AND REMOVE FLOWERS AND OUTER FOLIAGE TO ASSIST WITH WATER UPTAKE. PROVIDE TEMPORARY SHADE WHILE LAVENDER RECOVERS. MONITOR PLANT FOR NEW GROWTH
“MY LAVENDER IS DYING FROM THE BOTTOM UP”
THE PROBLEM: AN OTHERWISE HEALTHY LAVENDER HAS DIEOFF OF FOLIAGE FROM THE BOTTOW OF THE PLANT MOVING UPWARDS, USUALLY HAPPENING DURING THE COOLER SEASONS.
THE CAUSE: MANY TYPES OF LAVENDER REQUIRE A COOING SEASON (VERNALIZATION). LAVENDER GROWN IN HOT CLIMATES OFTEN DIE OFF FROM THE BASE UPWARDS WITHOUT THIS COOLING TIME. ENGLISH LAVENDER GROWN IN USDA ZONES 10 OR HIGHER ARE USUALLY VERY SHORT LIVED.
THE REMEDY: FOR POTTED LAVENDER: PROTECT FROM FREEZING, AVOID HEATED GREENHOUSES AND RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO KEEP YOUR LAVENDER INDOORS FOR MORE THAN THREE CONSECUTIVE DAYS. POTTED LAVENDERS CAN SHELTER IN A GARAGE, ON THE SOUTH SIDE OF A BUILDING OR IN AN UNHEATED SHED. DON’T FORGET TO IRRIGATE. FOR GROUND PLANTED LAVENDER: CHOOSE VARIETIES MOST SUITED FOR HOT CLIMATES: L. STOECHAS, L. MULTIFIDA AND L. DENTATA.
“IT’S SPRINGTIME AND MY LAVENDER IS DEAD”
THE PROBLEM: LAVENDER SEEMS COMPLETELY DEAD AFTER OTHER PLANTS ARE LEAFING OUT IN APRIL
THE CAUSE: A LATE DORMANCY PERIOD BROUGHT ON BY WINTER STRESS
THE REMEDY: CHECK THE BASE OF YOUR LAVENDER FOR NEW GROWTH AND REMOVE ANY DEAD PLANT TISSUE TO ENCOURAGE NEW GROWTH
“MOLD ON THE LEAVES & FLOWERS OF MY LAVENDER”
THE PROBLEM: WILTING FLOWER BUDS WITH FUZZY GREY BROWN DIEBACK ON BLOSSOM STEMS. ADDITIONAL STEMS AND LEAVES MAY BE AFFECTED.
THE CAUSE: GREY MOLD - A DISEASE CAUSED BY THE FUNGUS BOTRYTIS CINEREA. COMMON IN GREENHOUSE LAVENDER CROWDED TOGETHER, IN HIGH HUMIDITY OR POOR AIR CIRCULATION.
THE REMEDY: IMPROVE AIR CIRCULATION AND REDUCE CROWDING AND HUMIDITY IF POSSIBLE. DISPOSE OF (OR BURN) ALL INFECTED PLANT PARTS AND SANITIZE TOOLS. DISCARD VERY INFECTED PLANTS. QUARANTINE PLANTS THAT ARE MILDLY INFECTED.
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